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Island Peak Climbing

Trip Introduction

Duration : 21 days
Difficulty Level : Alpine Climbing

Island peak (6,189m/20,305ft) is also nick named as Imjatse is located 83°44'45'' Longitude and 29°08°00'' latitude was named by Eric Shipton who thought it looked like ‘an island in a sea of ice', on their way to explore the Barun Gorge and from Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 Island peak was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.  Island peak is situated at the top of the Imja Khola valley in Khumbu, Everest area just above the summer settlement of Chhukung, surrounded by the Imja, Lhotse Shar glacier is a moderate climbing graded "D" Alf Gregory, Charles Evans, Tenzing Norgey Sherpa and Charles Wylie with other Sherpas as part of an acclimatization program, prior to their successful campaign on Mt. Everest, first climbed the peak in 1953.

Island peak offers a worthwhile technical climb, involving a scramble up a rock gully and easy rock ridge, to glacier. Above the glacier, steep snow headwall leads to the summit ridge that continues in an incredibly exposed position to the summit.

Before climbing Island Peak, we trek up the Dudh Kosi valley from Lukla, passing through Namche, Phortse Tenga, Pangboche on our way to Kala Pattar or Everest Base Camp. The climb will be undertaken towards the end of the trek when everyone will be fully acclimatized, we then head up the beautiful Imja Khola valley towards the Peak. The best period for climbing the peak are from March thru May and September thru December.

Following the ascent of the Peak, we retrace our route back to Tengboche, Namche to Lukla, and from there we fly back to Kathmandu.

Isand Peak (IMJA TSE-6,189m/20,305ft) Climbing Facts                    
(Marvelous trekking to the Everest region, Everest BC & Island Peak Climbing)
Starting from: Lukla
Ending at: Lukla
Grade:     Alpline grade PD/AD
Location: Longitude 83°44' 45'', Latitude: 29° 08° 00''
Highest access of the trek/climb: Island peak summit (6,189m)
Himalayan sights: Mt. Everest, Makalu, Baruntse, Mera peak, Nuptse flanks Kusum Kanguru, Cho-Oyu, Cho Polu, Ama Dablam, Shartse, Lhotse, Nuptse, Kwangde etc.
Most attraction of the trek: Follow the footsteps of the first 1953 successful Everest summiters-Alf  Gregory,                                                Charlies Willie, Tenzing Norgey etc… & touch the Mt. Everest.
Departures: March-May, September-November

Days Memo/ outline itinerary
1 Arrive Kathmandu, meet AEX representative & transfer to hotel.
2 Day at leisure in Kathmandu/Independent activities.
3 Morning flight Kathmandu to Lukla, trek to Monjo (2,835m) or Phakding(2610m), the gateway to Everest valley.
4 Trek through the Sagarmatha National park uphill to Namche Bazaar (3,400m), the capital city of the Sherpa people of Khumbu region.
5 At leisure /acclimatization in Namche Bazaar (3,400m). This day is important in terms of acclimatization and on this day we hike upto Khumjung or Everest View Hotel (3,900m).
6 With superb view of Ama Dablam crossing Dudh Koshi River arrive at one of the most famous monasteries of Everest region at Tyangboche and few minutes’ walk down to Deboche (3,700m).
7 Trekking through the rhododendron forest to Pangboche, excellent view point for Mt. Ama Dablam and further trek and turn up the Imja Imja Valley to reach the picturesque farming village of Dingboche.
8 Acclimatisation in Dingboche (4,410m). Today is another important day of the trip in terms of the acclimatization and exploration around the region as we hike above Dingboche or walk nearby village of Pheriche, which has a hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association.
9 Our first day climbing begins as we walk up Dingboche to reach Pokalde Base Camp (4900m).
10 A short Climb up to Pokalde High Camp (5400m).
11 Early morning ascent of Pokalde and descend to the Imja Valley at Chhukung (4730m), the last village before Island peak Base camp.
12 We continue eastwards below the 3000-metre Lhotse Face to the base camp for our final objective, Island Peak and we camp around 5040m.
13 Today is short day  ascent to our Island peak high camp (5760m) overlooking the Lhotse Shar Glacier and across to Baruntse.
14 The final day of our objective has come to summit the Island Peak (6,189m), and we start the climb as early as 4 O’clock in the morning in the rock gully to reach a ridge line, which leads onto the snout of the glacier. Our staffs will place fixed line on the headwall, and further climbing gain the ridge and from here it's 3 rope lengths to the summit. After enjoying the excellent views across Everest region as far as Baruntse and Makalu, we descend back to Base Camp then further to Chhukung.
15 Spare day in case of bad weather.
16-18 Trek back down the Khumbu Valley via Pangboche and Phakding to Lukla.
19 Fly Lukla to Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.
20 At Leisure in Kathmandu/independent activities.
21 Departure from Nepal or join another trip


-Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin sharing bed & breakfast basis,
-Internal flight tickets,
-Island peak Climbing peak permit & other necessary permits,
-Professional Sherpa Guide (Sirdar) & assistant Sherpas depending on number of member backed by full crew member of kitchen staffs,
-Summit bonus for climbing sherpas,
-Daily wages, insurance, cloth, food, shelter of staffs and porters,
-Three meals a day (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner) during entire trip,
-Complete camping equipments & all common climbing equipments: snow-bar, ice-screw, ropes, snow shovel,
-Transport of all food supply & equipments from the trip starting point to the ending point as per itinerary,
-Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
-First Aid Medical Kit (only for staffs),
-O2 or hyperbaric chamber for emergency use,
-Emergency helicopter rescue evacuation arrangements,

x Air travel to/from Nepal,
x Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu,
x Soft/hard drinks, laundry, postage, telephone bills, all items of personal nature,
x Personal clothing, insurance against accidental, medical and emergency rescue evacuations,
x Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the trip due to sickness or emergency purpose.

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